Fondue, saunas and a lakeside view: Spending a Swiss weekend in Geneva
It's easy to forget that Geneva, a city that's practically synonymous with international diplomacy, has an identity quite apart from its condition every bit a global hub. Just Geneva'southward historic heart was already a couple of thousand years erstwhile when the United nations came to boondocks, and the city'south residents – newcomers and natives alike – still fiercely embrace traditions that have been historic hither for centuries. Paris or Rome information technology isn't, but then Geneva isn't vying to be i of the megastars of Europe. At one time deeply Swiss and intrinsically international, it has carved out its own identify in the earth. Here are our suggestions on making the most out of your stay over a weekend.
Friday
VISIT THE OLD TOWN MUSEUM
Start your visit with a tour of the Maison Tavel, a small museum in Geneva's Old Boondocks that tells the story of the urban center through the centuries. Entrance is free and there are two highlights: The absorbing audiovisual display on the footing level, and on the meridian floor, an architect's replica of the metropolis heart, which occupies an unabridged room. A recurring theme here is the Duke of Savoy's surprise attack on the urban center during a December night in 1602. The Genevois pushed back the invading ground forces, thanks in part – or so legend has it – to a woman who poured a caldron of hot soup on enemy soldiers as they tried to scale the city'southward walls. Locals still celebrate this victory every year on a weekend in December, when One-time Town'southward asphalt streets reverberate with cannon booms and make full with people parading around in 17th-century dress. This year'southward celebrations will take place from December half-dozen to 8; details at www.1602.ch
Accept DINNER IN THE PARK
Wander downhill from Old Town to Geneva'due south get-go botanic garden, the leafy Parc des Bastions. About the archway to the park, and but next to a cluster of giant, outdoor chess boards, y'all'll detect your destination for dinner: Buffet Restaurant du Parc des Bastions. The restaurant'due south greenhouse-like building hosted concerts in the 19th century and was later transformed into a cinema. Today, information technology's a romantic spot for a meal, with an elegant atmosphere and a sophisticated bill of fare that includes beef tartare, housemade perch from Lake Geneva. Dinner for ii, from 100 Swiss francs, nigh S$139.
WALK THROUGH CAROUGE NEIGHBOURHOOD
Walk out through the park'due south main archway and catch the tram to Carouge, a stylish neighborhood that was built equally a separate city – complete with neo-Classical architecture and a well-planned filigree of streets – by the Rex of Sardinia in the 18th century. Sample the natural wines at Vert Bouteille (from seven francs per glass), and then go adjacent door to catch some live music – anything from jazz to indie to electro-popular – at Le Chat Noir (entry price varies; cocktails from 15 francs). If you get hungry, cantankerous the street for tapas (from seven francs) at La Plage or walk a few blocks to Buffet Equinoxe for a late-night dessert (12 francs).
SATURDAY
Have A PORTUGUESE BREAKFAST
Geneva'southward big Portuguese community has fabricated its mark on the food scene. Get a taste at L'Epi Dore, a busy, Portuguese-owned cafe that serves bootleg pastries to a devoted clientele. Order a café renverse (the Genevois term for a coffee with milk, 3.ninety francs) to go with your pastel de nata (two.50 francs), the classic custard tart, served here alongside a shaker of cinnamon sugar.
BROWSE FOR BARGAINS AT A FLEA Market place
Geneva has a well-deserved reputation for existence expensive, just don't allow that scare you off. The Plainpalais neighborhood – a various district not far from Sometime Boondocks – is a good place to look for deals, or at least reasonable prices. On Saturdays, Plainpalais's flea market overflows with antiques, dress, jewelry and bric-a-brac, with plenty of treasures to exist found. A few blocks away, you tin can browse loftier-stop kitchenware and other abode goods at Grain de Sel; observe a chic infant gift at Poisson Rouge; and shop for swish woman's vesture at Pourquoi Pas.
GO FOR A HEARTY Lunch
Restaurants in Geneva tend to be either starchy, white-tablecloth dining rooms or kebab shops. Chez Ma Cousine, which has four locations in the city, is a glorious exception. Here, the atmosphere is warm, the food hearty and the prices somewhat reasonable. Society the restaurant's signature dish: Half a roast chicken, served alongside a pile of chunky, well-seasoned roasted potatoes and a heap of perfectly dressed salad greens (15.xc francs). It's best to book alee for Saturday lunch, although the smallest location, in Old Town, doesn't take reservations.
VISIT THE RED Cross AND Scarlet CRESCENT MUSEUM
You could fence that Geneva arrived on the global stage in 1863, when the Genevois Henry Dunant and iv other Swiss men set up what we know today equally the Red Cantankerous, an organisation whose emblem – the inverse of the Swiss flag — has go a universal symbol for medical aid. Explore this history, and the Cherry Cross's part in assisting soldiers, prisoners and endangered people around the world, in the small but engrossing International Red Cantankerous and Red Crescent Museum (entrance free is 15 francs). The museum's immersive exhibitions explore 3 humanitarian challenges: Defending human dignity, restoring family links and reducing natural risks. Look out for the moving video testimony of a former detainee at Guantanamo Bay.
WALK Forth LAKE GENEVA
Ready off downhill from the museum and walk around the corner to the Broken Chair sculpture, which sits at 1 finish of a long row of flags leading to the Palais des Nations, the European headquarters of the United Nations. Carry on down the gradient to the enchanting and oftentimes-overlooked Botanic Garden, where dahlias, asters and autumn daffodils come up into flower every bit summer draws to a close. At the bottom of the garden, look for the pocket-size underground walkway that takes you below the traffic on Rue de Lausanne and direct to the edge of Lake Geneva (or Lac Leman, as it's called in French). Keeping the lake on your left, walk past the lawn of the Globe Trade Organization; proceed through the landscaped Parc Mon Repos; and finally stroll along the Quai Wilson, where you tin can take in a view of Geneva's 140m-tall fountain, the Jet d'Eau, beyond the lake.
RELAX AT A SWISS SAUNA
Let'due south hope the walk has warmed y'all upwardly, because it's time to disrobe: Yous've arrived at the Bains des Paquis, a jetty sitting atop Lake Geneva that hosts a popular sauna and bathhouse from mid-September to the finish of May. You can vesture your bathing arrange if y'all're squeamish, but you'll be in the minority, as most Genevois – peculiarly the men – bask their bain in the nude. Start off in the steam bathroom (hammam), then roast in the sauna before taking a leap in the lake (entrance fee is twenty francs, plus five francs to rent a towel).
INDULGE IN A Expert FONDUE
Yes, it's true: The Swiss bask a skilful fondue. And you tin can too, at the casual, semi-outdoor eatery, La Buvette des Bains, that's a few steps from the sauna. Just make sure you follow the rules: Never have a fondue if the weather's warm, unless you want to immediately identify yourself as a tourist; beverage only white wine or herbal tea as you consume, never beer or water (the Swiss swear this will aid you avoid a postal service-fondue stomachache); and finally, at the finish of the meal, be sure to scrape off and relish what the Genevois call la religieuse, the golden, crunchy crust on the bottom of the pot. Stagger out of the eating place, then do your all-time to make it to bed earlier the cheese coma hits (fondue is priced at 25 francs; phone call ahead to reserve).
SUNDAY
GO Upward MONT SALEVE FOR PHOTOS
Near places in Geneva are airtight on Sundays, so follow the locals and caput for the hills. Your destination this morning is Mont Saleve, the small (by Alpine standards), only statuesque, mountain that serves as the properties to almost photos of the metropolis'due south skyline. To go to the base, either bulldoze or take hold of the No 8 bus to Veyrier, then walk across the border to France (that'south right, Saleve is non actually in Switzerland). Buy a ticket for the cable auto, the Telepherique du Saleve (return trip is eleven.ninety euros, or about S$eighteen), which will whisk y'all up to 1,097 metres. Enjoy the expansive views of the city, its lake and the Jura mountains in the altitude, and so set off on the two-hour "balustrade" hike, a gentle walk through forest and farmland that will advantage you with views of Mont Blanc if the weather's good. (Ask for a hiking guide when y'all purchase your cable car ticket.)
Accept Tiffin AT THE OBSERVATORY
Wrap up your wanderings at L'Observatoire, a cosy restaurant that'southward near a 25-minute walk from the top of the cable machine. Dive into a generous burger and chips every bit you residual your legs and have in the views. It'southward a popular spot on the weekend, so be sure to call ahead; enquire for a tabular array by the window. Lunch is almost 20 to 25 euros.
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WHERE TO STAY
If you'd like to brush shoulders with some international pooh-bahs, then volume a room at the InterContinental, Geneva's go-to spot for high-level peace talks and news conferences. Double rooms without breakfast start from 367 francs. For a homier stay, consider the Hotel Auberge Communale in Carouge, which offers double rooms for 180 francs, breakfast included. Or to feel similar a local, rent an apartment in either Plainpalais or Carouge, both lively and walkable neighborhoods with good transit links. Prices on Airbnb in those areas beginning from effectually 100 francs per night.
Past Paige McClanahan © 2022 The New York Times
Source: https://cnalifestyle.channelnewsasia.com/experiences/geneva-switzerland-256741
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